Oily Skin 101 | How to Build Your Basic Skincare Routine

Oily Skin 101 | How to Build Your Basic Skincare Routine

Are you fed up with foundation looking cakey on your oily skin no matter what you do? Does your makeup break down into an oily mess in a blink of an eye? Nothing seems to work, not even layers of powder nor setting spray nor the most boujee makeup you've ever splurged on? 

The answer to your problems may come as a surprise because it has to do more with your skincare than your makeup. Of course, the makeup you use is important, but nearly not as important as your skincare. In today's post I'm bringing you everything there is to know about oily skin and how to build your basic skincare routine.

Contents:
  • Understanding Oily Skin
  • Skincare Basics for Oily Skin
  • Things to Avoid
  • Morning Skincare Routine
    • Mild Cleanser
    • Soothing Toner
    • Lightweight Moisturizer
    • Mineral-Based SPF
  • Evening Skincare Routine
    • Oil-Based Makeup Remover
    • Mild Cleanser
    • Soothing Toner
    • Gentle Treatment
    • Hydrating Sleeping Mask/Pack
  • Other Things to Keep in Mind 

    UNDERSTANDING OILY SKIN

    Out of the four basic skin types (normal, dry, oily, and combination), oily skin is probably the most demanding one to take care of. Unlike normal skin which is well-balanced, oily skin produces excess sebum (oil) around the clock which puts it in grave risk of acne and pimple breakouts. Oily skin is also characterized by large pores due to all the excess sebum which nestles around the pores and makes them appear enlarged. 

    As if things weren't complicated enough, there's one more thing you need to be aware of, and that is your skin condition. Your oily skin can be thick or thin; it can be reactive and/or sensitive; you could have some type of rosacea (redness) and/or dermatitis (usually seborrhea which leads to dehydration issues); you could also be prone to hyperpigmentation plus the usual monthly hormonal breakouts. Your genetics and lifestyle also play an important role in your overall skin behaviour and appearance. 

    On the bright side, all the excess sebum your oily skin produces is most likely going to make your skin look young longer than if you had any other skin type. That is, if you take good care of it.

    SKINCARE BASICS FOR OILY SKIN

    The most common mistake people with only skin make is over-washing and over-drying the skin. Trust me when I say what a huge mistake that is because I have been guilty of it in my teenage years when I didn't know any better, and it took me a long, long time to recuperate. I know the urge to use the harshest possible cleanser, scrub it around like there's no tomorrow, apply tons of astringent instead of toner, and top if off with a drying moisturizer if any moisturizer at all. Such an approach might bring you temporary relief from excess sebum production, but in a matter of hour(s) your oily skin is going to combat what you did with even more sebum, and before you know it, you're going to find yourself stuck in a vicious circle, just like I did. 

    Instead of trying to combat the excess sebum production, what you should be doing is focusing on restoring balance to your skin. The key to do that is to use mild products full of soothing ingredients. Don't get me wrong, that doesn't mean you won't apply targeted treatments. Quite the opposite! The thing is, if your basic skincare routine is mild, it will also enable the treatments to unleash their full potential. 

    I hope you're ready to swap your harsh skincare arsenal with a mild one because it will do more wonders for your oily skin in the long run than you could possibly imagine.

    THINGS TO AVOID

    Before we jump into the routine and actual products, I would like to point out the most common ingredients you should try to avoid if you have oily skin. Everything I'm going to mention is based on the premise that your oily skin is in the most dehydrated, reactive and sensitive condition, prone to breakouts, rosacea (redness), and all sorts of dermatitis.
    • DRYING ALCOHOLS (Alcohol Denat, SD Alcohol, Ethanol, Methanol, Ethyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol) - Unlike fatty alcohols which are used as emollients and thickeners in products for dry skin, drying alcohols are often found in products for oily skin, but are a major no-no because they can cause dryness, irritation and breakouts.
    • HARSH SUFRACTANTS (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Coco Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium C14-16 Oleth Sulfate, etc.) - Surfactants are used to form lather in cleansing products and make them rinsable (think of bubbly detergents). Just like drying alcohols, they can cause dryness, irritation as well as breakouts. They are pretty hard to avoid in cleansing products, so at least try to find products with lower concentration of harsh surfactants, i.e. in the fifth or lower place in the ingredients list.
    • OCCLUSIVE EMOLLIENTS (Mineral Oil, Lanolin, Paraffin, Beeswax, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, anything Siloxane, Petroleum derived ingredients, etc.) - Just like fatty alcohols, they are great for dry skin, but are way too heavy and highly pore-clogging (breakout-causing) on oily skin. The only skincare product I use which contains silicones is mineral-based SPF. Interested to find out why? Check out this review.
    • OCCLUSIVE OILS (Coconut Oil, Olive Oil, Almond Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Argan Oil, Marula Oil, Macadamia Oil, etc.) - Once again, just like fatty alcohols and occlusive emollients, occlusive oils are great for dry skin, but not so much for oily skin. The only product in your skincare routine which isn't frowned upon for containing occlusive oils is a rinsable makeup remover.
    • FRAGRANCE (Fragrance, Perfume, Parfum) - Fragrance is another common, yet highly irritating ingredient. The biggest problem with fragrance is its regulation in the cosmetic industry. There are over 5000 different fragrance compounds used under the same generic name (Fragrance or Perfume), so you basically have no idea what you're putting on your skin. The only thing you do know is that fragrance is highly irritating no matter where it comes from (synthetic or natural).
    • BOTANICAL EXTRACTS and ESSENTIAL OILS (esp. Menthol, Mint, Eucalyptus, anything from the Citrus family) - Although botanical extracts and essential oils can be beneficial for your skin, I would strongly suggest to avoid them in your basic skincare routine because most are highly irritating (unless you're absolutely sure that the ones you're using are among the non-irritating ones).
    • WITCH HAZEL (Hamamelis Virginiana) - Witch Hazel is often used in toners to tighten pores, but due to its astrigent properties and the fact that it's mostly distilled in high concentrations of denatured alcohol, it can cause severe dryness and irritation.
    • ACTIVE INGREDIENTS - Active ingredients like Vitamin C, BHA, AHAs or Retinol are going to come in real handy, but only after you establish your basic skincare routine and give your skin a month or two to three to adjust and naturally begin to restore its balance.

    MORNING SKINCARE ROUTINE

    The most basic morning skincare routine for oily skin consists of four products. You'll need a mild cleanser, a soothing toner, a lightweight moisturizer, and mineral-based SPF. Nothing new nor revolutionary here, right? Oh, there is one thing! When it comes to toner, I apply the 7-Skin Method which means I apply toner up to 7 layers by gently pressing it into my skin with the palms of my hands. Try it, and you'll be amazed at what a difference in regards to hydration that makes. Back to products, you can even skip the lightweight moisturizer if you feel like your SPF provides enough hydration, especially in the hot summer months. Here are my top picks in each category.

    (I won't get into much detail about each product other than paste its description and ingredients list because this post is going to be long enough as is. If you're interested to find out more about any product or how I use it, feel free to leave a comment below.)


    La Roche Posay Softening Foaming Gel

    Mild Cleanser | La Roche-Posay Softening Foaming Gel

    ˝Rich, gentle gel for safe cleansing and make-up removal with water. Normal to combination intolerant, sensitive skin. Enriched in hard water-neutralising EDTA and moisturizing glycerine. Strict formula charter to minimise the risk of intolerance. Soap-free, preservative-free, fragrance-free, pH 5.5.˝

    INGREDIENTS: Aqua/Water, Glycerin, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Poloxamer 184, Butylene Gylcol, Coco-Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Glycolate, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid.
    Afrodita Cosmetics Aloe Vera Tonic Hydra

    Soothing Toner | Afrodita Cosmetics Aloe Vera Tonic Hydra

    ˝Intensively soothes, cools and stimulates skin cell regeneration thanks to its incredible hydrating power and freshness. Suitable for use at any time of the day and for all skin types, especially dry, irritated and sunburnt skin. Apply to cleansed skin and leave to absorb.˝

    INGREDIENTS: Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Sulfite, CI 47005, CI 42051.



    La Roche-Posay Toleraine Fluid

    Lightweight Moisturizer | La Roche-Posay Toleraine Fluid

    ˝Instantaneously moisturises and soothes heating and irritations in combination to oily intolerant skin. Its formula concentrated in La Roche-Posay thermal spring water soothes the tight, burning, pulling sensations found in intolerant skin. Strict formula charter, with a minimum number of ingredients to limit allergy risks. Fragrance-free, preservative-free, paraben-free. Non-comedogenic.˝

    INGREDIENTS: Aqua/Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol.

     Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin

    Mineral-Based SPF | Paula's Choice Calm Redness Relief SPF 30 Mineral Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin

    ˝A lightweight mineral-based sunscreen that calms and soothes sensitive skin while protecting it against damaging UVA/UVB rays. Diminishes the appearance of redness. Helps skin looking younger, longer. Non-greasy lotion leaves a soft matte finish. Use as the last step in your AM skincare routine.˝
      INGREDIENTS: Aqua, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Zinc Oxide (6%), Cyclomethicone, Titanium Dioxide (2,32%), Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polysorbate 80, Caprylyl Methicone, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Allantoin, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Alumina, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Panthenol, Algae Extract, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Diethylhexyl Carbonate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin. 

      EVENING SKINCARE ROUTINE

      Just like your morning routine, the most basic evening skincare routine for oily skin consists of only a few products, and a couple of them are used both in the morning as well as at night.

      Whether you wear makeup or not, you're going to need an efficient, yet gentle makeup remover if nothing else to remove the stubborn SPF from your skin. I strongly suggest to use an oil-based rinsable makeup remover because it's the most powerful, but gentle thing out there. (Makeup wipes are a big no-no for any skin type whereas micellar water often contain drying ingredients which we're trying to avoid at any cost.) Now, I can already here your eyes rolling at me at the mention of anything oil-based in your skincare routine, but we're talking about a rinsable formula which will melt all of your makeup and SPF in a jiffy, and it will stay on your skin only for a minute or two until you rinse it off with lukewarm water.

      After the makeup remover, you're going to need a mild cleanser to cleanse the skin followed by a soothing toner (remember the 7-Skin Method I mentioned in the morning routine). Both of these things are the same ones you use in the morning, but I'm going to showcase them once again just to keep things clear.

      Soothing toner is followed either by a gentle treatment or you can jump straight to your hydrating sleeping mask/pack. Nighttime is the time to slather on some serious hydration, and the best way to do so is with a sleeping mask/pack. They're designed to provide hydration plus to lock in everything you've applied earlier.

      Speaking of things you've applied earlier, the only treatment I suggest you use in your basic skincare routine is Rosehip Oil. Oil, again?! Are you kidding me?! Bear with me just for a moment. Rosehip Oil is a dry oil which means it's lightweight. The reason why I suggest to use Rosehip Oil as your only treatment at this stage is because it's a powerful antioxidant loaded with vitamins and essential fatty acids which help reduce the appearance of scars and fine lines, brighten dark spots, and soothe itchy skin. Lightweight and gentle, but powerful? Count me in!

      (Just like in the morning skincare routine, I won't get into much detail about each product other than paste its description and ingredients list because this post is going to be long enough as is. If you're interested to find out more about any product or how I use it, feel free to leave a comment below.)
      DHC Deep Cleansing Oil

      Oil-Based Makeup Remover | DHC Deep Cleansing Oil

      ˝An olive oil–based facial cleanser that dissolves makeup thoroughly with zero residue. Its nutritive formula effortlessly breaks down stubborn, waterproof mascara and eyeliner and emulsifies into a cleansing milk when you rinse. Great for removing excess oil and sunscreen, it's a daily must-have even if you don't wear makeup. Your skin will feel soothed, refreshed, and balanced. One try is all you need to see why millions of women swear by it. Formulated without added fragrance, colorants, parabens, phthalates, and mineral oil.˝

      INGREDIENTS: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil.



      La Roche Posay Softening Foaming Gel

      Mild Cleanser | La Roche-Posay Softening Foaming Gel

      ˝Rich, gentle gel for safe cleansing and make-up removal with water. Normal to combination intolerant, sensitive skin. Enriched in hard water-neutralising EDTA and moisturizing glycerine. Strict formula charter to minimise the risk of intolerance. Soap-free, preservative-free, fragrance-free, pH 5.5.˝

      INGREDIENTS: Aqua/Water, Glycerin, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Poloxamer 184, Butylene Gylcol, Coco-Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Glycolate, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid.
      Afrodita Cosmetics Aloe Vera Tonic Hydra

      Soothing Toner | Afrodita Cosmetics Aloe Vera Tonic Hydra

      ˝Intensively soothes, cools and stimulates skin cell regeneration thanks to its incredible hydrating power and freshness. Suitable for use at any time of the day and for all skin types, especially dry, irritated and sunburnt skin. Apply to cleansed skin and leave to absorb.˝

      INGREDIENTS: Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Allantoin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Sulfite, CI 47005, CI 42051.

      Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil

      Gentle Treatment | Pai Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil

      ˝Our bestselling skin hero is the ultimate multi-tasker. With regular use, it deeply conditions skin, improving firmness and elasticity and promoting a clear, even skin tone. Its high concentrations of essential nutrients feed the skin, fuelling its essential overnight regeneration processes without irritation. Among other things, Rosehip BioRegenerate Oil can be used to improve: dry patches, flaky patches, blemishes, dull skin tone, fine lines, scars, and sun damage.˝

      INGREDIENTS: Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Seed Extract, Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract.

      Innisfree Jeju Bamboo Sleeping Pack

      Hydrating Sleeping Mask/Pack | Innisfree Jeju Bamboo Sleeping Pack

      ˝Wake up to a refreshed skin with this sleeping pack that is infused with Jeju bamboo water and relief skin affected by UV rays. The Sleeping Pack further contains Extra Mile Complex, which provides anti-oxidation that soothes and revitalizes the skin overnight.˝

      INGREDIENTS: Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract (82%), Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, PEG-32, Betaine, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Pueraria Thunbergiana Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Orchid Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract, Soluble Collagen, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Tromethamine, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Polyacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Ceramide NP, Maltodextrin, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance.

      OTHER THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

      As if the post isn't long enough, there are a few other things to keep in mind that need to be mentioned:
      1. First of all, don't feel need to immediately throw away every single skincare product you own just because they're not the ones I featured here. Take a step back and look closely at the ingredients list of each and every product you use. The main thing to do is to avoid the drying, irritating and breakout-causing ingredients I mentioned above. You'll do your skin a huge favour simply by not using the things that throw it off balance.
      2. Most of the products featured in the post aren't budget-friendly, and it can be financially overwhelming to start an entire new skincare routine all at once. Nowadays, there are a lot of drugstore options which can easily replace most of my favourites (except the Pai oil - it's the only one out there derived by CO2 extraction). If you don't live in a small country where there aren't many options like I do, go to the drugstore, take your time to browse the ingredients list of things that catch your eye, and just stick to avoiding the 'bad' stuff.
      3. Don't expect your skin to restore its balance in a matter of days. Commit to your routine for at least a month before you start seeing some serious changes.
      4. Don't expect your skin to restore its balance if you don't eat or sleep well, if you don't sanitize your phone frequently, if you don't change your pillow case regularly, if you don't use a clean towel or better yet a paper towel to pat your skin dry, etc.
      5. Stop touching your face! Your hands carry more bacteria than you could imagine, so refrain yourself from touching your skin as much as possible.
      6. Be gentle to your skin! Don't rub it, don't pull it, just be super gentle. How would you touch your heart or your liver or any other organ? Treat your biggest organ - your skin - with the same gentle respect.
      7. The biggest one of all, DON'T TRUST ANYONE ON THE INTERNET OR IN MAGAZINES OR WHEREVER, i.e. DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH! I'm not a doctor nor an aesthetician. I'm just a nobody with over 15 years of experience in trying to find a solution for my complex skin needs. Regardless, don't trust my nor anybody's word if it isn't backed up with credible sources. If you aren't sure whether an ingredient is 'good' or 'bad', use Google Scholar to find credible sources of research. Look at how many participants have been involved in the research, are the results corroborated by other researchers, etc.
      8. I hope this goes without saying, but make sure to consult your doctor and a legitimate aesthetician on any (serious) skin issues you might have.

      Kudos to you if you've made it to the end of the post! I only hope you found it helpful. Let me know your thoughts as well as any questions you might have in the comments below. I would love to hear from you, so feel free to type away!


      Yours lovingly,
      Minnie


      Image credit: La Roche-Posay, Afrodita Cosmetics, Paula's Choice, DHC, Pai, Innisfree.
      This is not a sponsored post.
      The post does not contain affiliate links. The things I've linked are there simply for your convenience.


      Online Reference Sources*, A-Z:

      Beautypedia: Seborrhea
      Forbes: Everything You Need to Know About Beauty Oils 
      Get The Gloss: Sense and Sensitivity: Ingredients to Avoid If You Have Sensitive Skin
      Get The Gloss: Sense and Sensitivity: Essential Oils and Sensitive Skin: Everything You Need to Know
      Naturally Curly: What Makes a Cleansing Ingredient More Harsh or More Gentle?
      Paula's Choice: Alcohol in Skincare: The Facts
      Paula's Choice: Essential Oils for Skin
      Paula's Choice: Is Witch Hazel Good for Skin?

      (In Croatian) Skintegra: Akne: zašto nastaju i kako ih tretirati?
      (In Croatian) Skintegra: Kako odrediti tip kože Skintegra tipologijom?

      *There's a lot more where that came from, but I thought it would be easier for the average reader to navigate through a couple of legitimate articles instead of tons of research papers.

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